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Since as long as we can remember, every year we would go soak up the Christmas atmosphere at the markets in Vienna. Our family tradition? Every year, the same scenario: wandering the city without a plan, drinking punch by the old town hall, roasted chestnuts, and ending with a slice of cake at Sacher. Like clockwork. That was until the arrival of our little ‘A’. Then everything changed – COVID, then ‘T’, then COVID again, and finally ‘Z’. Our Vienna adventure was put on hold.

“What will we do the Monday before Christmas?” Dad asks one November afternoon over coffee. And suddenly, a plan is born: “Christmas markets!” Great idea until the details set in: Vienna. By train. With three kids. Mom, who breaks down at the thought of a 10-minute trip to the doctor’s by bus, now has a month to prepare herself mentally. The big day approaches. Mom packs, Dad holds her back: “We’re not going to the North Pole, one jacket is enough!” The result? A mountain of clothes and an even bigger stash of snacks that could sustain a three-day expedition. The morning of departure is, as expected, hectic. The kids feel the tension, Dad becomes the orchestra conductor, and everything is eventually ready. On the train, the kids are entertained by fairy tales and snacks. After arriving in Vienna, a brisk half-hour walk brings us to the Rathausplatz market.

Chilled wind and minor grumpiness – our little adventurers are undeterred. The main attraction turns out to be a two-story carousel. Spirits lift from freezing to boiling point. Sausages, kids’ punch, and the beautiful Vienna decorations – the kids are thrilled, and we feel a touch of nostalgic reflection. “It’s not the same,” we whisper. But soon it’s time to go back. On the train ride home, the kids share their impressions and start planning their next trip to Vienna. Mom relaxes in the surprisingly comfortable train seat. She hadn’t been on a train in ages, with lingering memories of her weekly commute to boarding school in Ostrava on those horribly packed Friday and Sunday trains, where even standing in the aisle was a luxury if it wasn’t by the restroom. We’ll definitely go by train again.

And despite all the challenges, we admit: “Vienna? It was worth it!”

Merry Christmas!

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